Geology, convicts and wildlife

It was drizzling when the alarm woke me early so I could make my Maria Island cruise and walk rendevous at 8.00 - first alarm set in over 2 weeks!

The forecast was not bad enough to cancel but it did promise drizzle and choppy seas.

"Do you get sea sick?" was the greeting.

We headed down to the boat "Spirit of Maria" where Michael owner and boatman took us through the safety briefing and introduced Zoe who would look after us on board. He also mentioned we would encounter some rough water on the outer side of the island. I headed up to the top deck where I remained for the entire cruise.

Calm water leaving the wharf but weather ahead. Grey skies and grey water for most of the day.

Michael's commentary was excellent, enthusiastjc and very knowledgeable . He explained how Triabunna and Maria Island had changed over the years - new enterprises replacing older traditional industries like paper and pulp mills. 

He spoke eloquently of the race to map Australia between the French and English in 1802 (the French were the first to register the new map) and many of the names of landmarks, islands, townships reflect these early explorers,  cartographers and their patrons. e.g. Freycinet Peninsula. 

As we neared Maria a pod of dolphins flirted with our wake delighting us with their antics and soon we spotted a flight of gannets circling overhead. It was a portent of things to come. White sea-eagles, gulls of all shapes and sizes, and black cormorants were spotted frequently. 

Maria Island has quite a history: first a convict settlement in 1825 (5 years before Port Arthur was built) abandoned, then renewed as a site for the successful rehabilitation of convicts and again abandoned. Land was cleared and farms established aimed at teaching convicts job skills. They grew wheat, built flour mills, bakeries, barracks, cottages using bricks made here. The settlement named Darlington was repurposed over the years and many buildings in excellent condition remain. 

Later, an Italian family with big dreams searching for land, leased the Island. Entrepreneurs and visionaries the family began wineries, a silk industry, farms, fishing and built a hotel to attract tourists. One of the most ambitious plans was to produce cement and for a short few years a thriving industry was very successful.

All that is left of the Portland cement operation which covered this area.

The geology of the island is extraordinary and draws scientists and geologists from around the world: sandstone and limestone cliffs, fossils, dolomite columns and more dominate the ocean side of the island.

By now the sea was quite rough and many people below in the main cabin were sea sick. I was glad I had chosen the upper deck: it required a firm grip to remain seated but thankfully neither I or the other 7 were ill.

Sea caves dot the cliffs and Michael guided the boat into a large one so we could see the effect of water and calcification on the limestone cliffs. It was an eerie sensation going in with a wave and backing out but beautiful and sculptural inside.

A little further on green waterfalls came into view - foliage attaching to the cliff in the waterfalls.

Cliffs towered over us and the seas were breaking high over the rocks - beautiful!

Michael assured us that once we rounded the southern headland the waters would be calmer. He was right! 

Dolomite cliffs and columns dropped into the ocean.

Seals lay around sunbathing on the rocks or swam around the boat.

We anchored in a shallow bay in turquoise water for an excellent lunch.

Now that we were on the land side of Maria the sea was calmer and we docked at the wharf and disembarked to explore Darlington and the remnants of island industry.

Maria Island is now a national park: only biker riders, hikers and tourists visit. Many buildings, farm houses etc were dismantled and taken away.There are no vehicles except for rangers and only very rudimentary accommodation in the old convict precinct - bring your own food, bedding, tent, share kitchen etc.

It is also a haven for wildlife, many of whom have been introduced or reintroduced. Wombats, wallabies, Forester  kangaroos, Cape Barren geese, birds -  all thrive in their own paradise. So confident and unafraid are they, that nocturnal habits have been abandoned and they may be seen at all times. A number of wombats had babies trundling along behind - if you sat down to watch they would even come up to nibble at shoes!

40 Tasmanian Devils were introduced as a way to guard against the facial cancer decimating populations. They have bred well. No predators and plentiful food. There are now around 150 Devils but fewer little penguins, mutton birds and other birds. It may be necessary to remove some of them. 

So, in 8 hours we circumnavigated Maria Island, were challenged by the sea, admired its geology and its wildlife, discovered history and witnessed the enterprise, success and failures of diverse generations. It is a wild and beautiful place and worthy of another visit. Last glimpse! A really great day.

As we motored back to Triabunna the rain blocked our final view but we didn't mind at all, the boat was again surrounded by dolphins leaping around,  farewelling us,  as this morning they had welcomed us to Maria Island!