After breakfast I called into the Old Umbrella shop now the headquarters of the National Trust. Three generations of the Shott family made umbrellas here - I think I bought one - and there's a little museum. How elegant is this tea dress from the turn of the 20th century?
Evandale is famous for holding penny-farthing bike races in February and the Glover Art prize. It's full of old buildings and leafy trees and central to several old estates.
Woolmers estate nearby at Longford was open and I spent about 3 hours there.
A real time capsule: Woolmers is an example of an early Tasmanian estate initially begun with an allocation of convict labour. Thomas Archer came to Van Diemen's Land, took up land in the north and encouraged his three brothers to join him. Each brother developed his own property and all remain in Archer hands today. Woolmers is now operated as a non profiting stewardship to care for and maintain it and importantly is listed as a World Heritage Convict Site.
Thomas Archer was hard-working and fair to his convicts and long before the convict system finished he was paying them and encouraging them to improve themselves.
The first homestead facing the river, was made of timber and resembled an Indian style Bungalow. Ceilings are low and rooms quite small. Shutters protected the occupants from attack by bushrangers in the 1820s. It is a simple building. Thomas 1 died in the bedroom beside the door: his large coffin containing his substantial body was too big to exit through the door and had to be removed through the windows!
Convict women were housed on the first floor: bars are on the windows on the left windows, signifying restraint but no bars are on the windows on the right which was the nursery.
Thomas married and six generations all headed by a Thomas lived at Woolmers until 1995 when Thomas 6 died.
In 1840 an elegant Italianate extension was added as the politically and socially active Archers required more room for entertaining. The architect was one of Thomas' sons. He was responsible for many of the buildings on the estate.
Inside, this amazing extension was carefully thought through: furniture, paintings, silverware, tableware all imported. All decor and the building is in the grand Italian style. The huge dining room, capable of seating 20 persons, is crafted around the furniture. Alcoves, elegant cornices and a fabulous ceiling rose enhance the room. Flock wall paper in burgundy embossed with gold is on the walls. The gold has been eaten by silverfish. Maybe they should be called "goldfish"
The 1st Duke of Edinburgh, Prince Albert was a guest at a dinner party here, hosted by the second Mrs Archer. All the guests were men except for Mrs Archer who presided over the dinner as her husband and his heir Thomas 2 had passed away. The next Thomas was too young. Where were the Duchess and the wives of the distinguished guests?
A special bedroom was created for Governor John Franklin who was a frequent guest. He departed Tasmanian before it was completed and perished in his search for the North - West passage in the Artic!
When the grand rooms were not being used for social occasions they were closed and dark, thus preserving the fabrics and furnishings.
Lighting in the house was initially candle light, then gaslight with only one room in the house having electricity. So, no television or radios, only hand turned phonographs or piano (3 of them) for entertainment.
The Archers were creatures of habit. Mrs Thomas 5 did make some changes to soft furnishings - she loved pink - but nothing was thrown out!
When she died her son Thomas 6 who never married, simply closed the rooms up and lived a quiet, reclusive life in 2 rooms of the original house.
Having no heir Thomas 6 was concerned for the estate on his death but fortunately he became involved with family members researching the family history and these ultimately became involved in preserving the property. Time had wreaked having on the structure and surfaces, ceilings etc so preservation and conservation is critical and hugely expensive. All money made goes directly to maintaining this extraordinary estate.
The original kitchen.
Today the house and gardens, stables, various buildings and a new visitor centre, financed by an Archer descendent and the Tasmanian government, present a picture of the pastoral past. The National Rose garden is an added attraction exhibiting heritage and modern roses.
The stable block is full of dust and cobwebs covering heaps of junk but how comfortable for the horses would they once have been? There is stabling for 10 horses.
Thomas 6 also preserved the family vintage cars. This is the 1913 model but there were two more purchased in the 1930 and 50s.
The tour was conducted by a descendent of Joseph Archer of Penshanger: Catrina's passion for the family history and Woolmers was truly evident in the way she told the stories of the house and Thomas 1 through 6. All the stewards see the preservation of Woolmers as important not just for the Archers but for the history of Tasmania.
A rill ripples through the centre of the rose garden.
Hawthorn hedges, red with Autumn berries enclose the paddocks narrowing the country lanes but providing shelter and food for birds. Some are left wild, others clipped closely.
A last rose of summer on my last day in Tas!
Perfect! Like my holiday!
Sounds of Lanyon in the background of your writeup Lesley - always a good read! Thank you :-))
ReplyDelete