At the end of a long dirt road wending through dense forest, suddenly, after nothing for kilometres you are surrounded by delapidated shacks, mouldy caravans and campers in every possible configuration - tents, campervans, etc. tucked away in the bush. Despite its isolation it is incredibly popular!
Why is it called Cockle Creek?
The area is full of history. In 1792 the French under d'Entrecasteau accidently landed here after being blown off course for Bruny Island. They returned in 1793 in two ships for the purpose of scientific research and to search for traces of the explorer La Perouse who had disappeared on a voyage in the area (mystery only solved in 1828). They met the local indigenous people finding them friendly and happy to interact. Relations were friendly and cordial. Sadly as a result, diseases contracted during the second visit wiped out the entire population of around 50 people within 12 months. Many place names commemorate the sailors and scientists of these expeditions.
In 1829 an act of piracy saw civilians and some convicts stranded at the bay whilst their ship was sailed away by the conspirators. They survived - just. Two of the men made a canoe-like craft and were able to summon rescuers in the nick of time.
Whalers were the next to call the area home. The Southern Right whales used the bay for birthing their young and were easy prey. Ultimately whaling was unsustainable. Nevertheless, between 1830 and 1850 the bay ran red with their blood.
This beautiful statue is a memorial to these wonderful creatures.
Whalers were followed by timber getters recognisingd the value of the tall straight eucalypt trees for boats, housing and the local coal mines. Trees were felled and boat building, first by convicts and then families lasted almost 100 years. A number of mills lined the shore.
Remnant of the last mill run by Jean Heather who took charge during WW11.
Today the ranger station at Cockle Creek was closed. Several walkers returning from the coastal walk were resting up. One wondered if I was returning to Hobart. Only a handful of people live here permanently now.
Cockle Creek feels like the end of everything: the next stop is Antarctica and it's not that far away. Here you are closer to it than you are to Cairns. The proximity to Antarctica strongly influences the weather experienced here - fierce winds, rain, wild seas are constant challenges. Only a few scientists on Macquarie Island are further south than I am at Cockle Creek!
Apart from the "big" walks there are a few short tracks leading around the area. Fisher's Point a two hour walk from the whale statue is popular although affected by tides. Walkers are advised to check the tide chart at the beginning of the walk to avoid being trapped. Today though, the tide was out and the beach easy walking on packed sand. After a bit of rock hopping you enter the bush and reach the headland and the remains of the whaling station. The grey clouds sank down and the rain returned but not before I reached my car.
Sometimes it's the 'end of the line' places that really get you into the atmosphere and history of a place Lesley. Thanks to your terrific descriptive writing, Cockle Creek memories from 1981 came flooding back to me. Sounds like you're doing quite well travelling alone - I know you wondered how you'd feel without company.
ReplyDeleteThanks Lesley :-))
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