Doing time!

Very little competing traffic as I left Hobart  and moved onto Richmond, one of the earliest of towns in Tasmania, boasting the oldest bridge in Australia.  The beautiful, curved sandstone arches spanning the river were  constructed in 1825. It is one of the most photographed bridges anywhere. Added to its charms are the variety of ducks who live beneath: they enthusiastically welcome any visitors.

Probably the quintessential view - spires of the Anglican church through the centre arch.

The unknown engineer who designed the bridge was thinking ahead: he allowed for two lanes of traffic and they're still operating successfully today.

Afte Eggs Benedict at Ashmore House (thoroughly recommend it)  I decided to spend some time in Richmond Gaol. This is a real treat! And unique! It is not a ruin, or decimated in size, or a residual site. Owned now by Tasmanian Parks and Wildlife it remains intact with all its buildings and stone walls occupying leafy space next to the police station. It too had its beginning in 1825.

Thanks to a plentiful supply of convict labour, Richmond grew quickly to be the third largest town in the new colony. Many of the gracious and charming cottages and buildings in Richmond resulted from this time. But expansion also bought misdemeanours! Soon a local Gaol became necessary.

Originally consisting of this one building with a surrounding wooden fence housing javelin men (guards) and inmates together, it soon became inadequate and seriously overcrowded. By 1835 two wings and a house for the gaoler and his family were constructed, making an enclosed courtyard. Sandstone walls, 3.4 metres high, replaced paling fences in 1840 although even these did not prevent a number of escapes. Escapees pulled up floor boards and dug their way out! Or escaped through the roof!

Clientele included the most hardened criminals: murderers and bushrangers, as well as free debtors, petty thieves, drunks and Aborigines for whom charges were unnecessary. Generally women convicts did not occupy the same gaol as men but some women were held here en route to one of the female factories. The solitary cells and adjacent rooms for women are the best preserved examples anywhere in Tasmania. Horrible, wooden-lined boxes about a metre wide by two metres long, windowless and dark! 

The complex consists of a separate women's room and solitary cells, a men's room and solitary cells, kitchen and store rooms,

guards rooms and the gaoler's residence. There is a small punishment yard and a privy opening onto it. Regulations were carefully spelled out for the care and detention of inmates although not always adhered to.

     The punishment yard with the new wall.

A slatted ceiling was added when escapes were made through the roof.

            Room with a view to freedom!

                             Chained!

                        A serious lock!

Transportation ceased in 1853 and the Gaol became a Police watch house before coming under the control of the newly formed local municipal police. In 1898 such police forces were combined to become Tasmania Police and use of the Gaol declined, finally closing in 1928. On a sunny day it is hard to imagine the misery of life here! Until you walk into a cell and close the door!

Thankfully the site sat idle, largely untouched,  except by time, under the control of the Scenery Preservation Board thus saving it intact.  When the Parks and Wildlife Service was declared in 1971 it was registered as an historic site. The gaolers residence overlooking the courtyard was, for a time, a private residence.

Since 1987 it has been leased privately to a devoted historian determined to preserve and present its story. Quite a number of the inmates went on to live credible and productive lives. Of course, many didn't! But their stories too are part of Tasmania's rich and sometimes ugly and brutal tapestry. 

 

View from the residence including the sole tree in the courtyard!

The Tasman highway going up the east coast carries a lot of traffic but it is narrow and slow much of the way. In fact the road was closed near Orford for some time last year due to dangerous overhanging cliff faces.  They have now been reduced and stabilised.

Kate's Berry Farm near Swansea where I stopped for scones, jam and cream was very busy. Kate was rather grumpy though,  blaming everything on Covid so it wasn't relaxing or welcoming. Come to think of it - Kate was pretty grumpy last time I  stopped here and that was before Covid!

My East Coast Resort near Triabunna is very popular with families: heaps of things to do like swimming (2 pools), fishing, biking, cricket, canoing etc and everyone seems to be having a great time. It is quite warm - around 20 degrees - people wearing shorts etc. I am not tempted by the pools - far too cool for me!